Experts say Federal Pacific electrical panels in homes may be a fire waiting to happen
This is an article I recently found. Many of these boxes have also been found in South Florida.
Karen and Floyd Clardy remember hearing a giant pop from the garage. The lights in their Lake Highlands home went out, and suddenly there were flames.
Lake Highlands homeowner Todd Holmes says he’s replacing his home’s Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panel “to be on the safe side.”
They watched as fire spread from the garage to the attic and two rooms in the house, causing $160,000 worth of structural damage.
“The breaker box was shooting flames, and there were sparks,” Karen Clardy said.
Dallas Fire-Rescue determined that the fire in March started in the electrical panel in the garage. The Clardys’ home was equipped with a Federal Pacific Stab-Lok, a type of circuit breaker in thousands of North Texas homes that is now widely thought by engineers, electricians and house inspectors to be defective – and dangerous.
Experts first began saying in 1980 that a high percentage of the circuit breakers failed to trip. After testing the devices for about two years, the Consumer Product Safety Commission said the government lacked sufficient data to warrant a recall. No warning was ever issued.
But in recent years, engineers studying them independently have found that the circuit breakers can overload and cause fires. Many have been replaced in the decades since they were manufactured, but one expert estimates they are still used in 20 million homes nationwide.
“They’re everywhere,” said Bob Charvoz, chief home inspector for the American Association of Professional Inspectors in Plano.
“If your house was built during the ’60s, ’70s or ’80s, it probably has one of these breakers. About 90 percent of houses we see from that time have them.”
New York engineer Jesse Aronstein said he has been writing to the Consumer Product Safety Commission for six years, urging that a clear warning be issued.
Aronstein met with the commission most recently in February, saying that fires could be prevented if the commission would update its 1983 statement. The commission now says it is working on a way to make its stance clearer, spokesman Scott Wolfson said.
“If homeowners have been experiencing these incidents, we want them to report them to our agency,” Wolfson said. But he added, “We need to recognize that there was no final conclusion.”
Federal Pacific is no longer in business.
Although the suspect breakers were used in homes constructed by many builders, Fox & Jacobs installed them exclusively in the Southwest up until the mid- to late 1960s, according to a spokeswoman from Pulte Homes, which now owns the company. Fox & Jacobs homes accounted for about 80 percent of homes built in the Dallas-Fort Worth area during most of the 1970s.
No one can say how many house fires can be traced back to faults the experts see in the boxes, although fire departments and insurance inspectors say they regularly see fires start there, or start elsewhere in a home because a circuit breaker fails to do its job.
Several engineering experts who have tested the boxes under laboratory conditions have found them to be defective. Potential problems with the Federal Pacific circuit breakers are such that many Texas home inspectors regularly advise home buyers to remove them before a purchase.
But not always. The Clardys’ house, built in 1978, had two previous owners. After the fire, they were surprised to learn the history of the type of circuit breaker that was in their house.
“We had no idea we had a problem” Floyd Clardy said. “No one ever said, ‘Replace the breaker box. This is dangerous.’ ”
“If they had, we would have done it in a flash,” his wife said.
The suspect Stab-Lok circuit breakers were manufactured beginning in 1960 and used through the 1980s by Federal Pacific Electric. Most – but not all – were installed in closets.
The standards set for breakers can be compared to those for automobile brakes.
Brakes should be able to stop a car within a set distance; Circuit breakers should interrupt the electrical current when circuits become overloaded and overheated. This can prevent hazards such as overheating and shocks and at worst a fire.
Aronstein said his two decades of testing showed that more than 25 percent of Federal Pacific circuit breakers are defective in lab settings. The rate could be higher in non-lab settings, engineers say.
Denton engineer Mark Goodson’s consulting firm investigates fires for insurance companies, including the company that insured the Clardys.
“I think they’re dangerous,” Goodson said. “They don’t timely trip. I’ve seen fires caused by these breakers. I’ve seen wires overheat where a Federal Pacific breaker did not trip. If left unchecked the wires can combust and spread to cardboard, paper, clothing.”
For more than 100 years, standards for circuit breakers has been unofficially set by Underwriters Laboratories, a nonprofit groups that tests appliances and sets standards used by the federal Consumer Product Safety Commission.
UL electrical engineer John Drengenberg said companies can sell products that don’t have the UL mark, but building inspectors will not pass a new home if something like a circuit breaker doesn’t bear the seal.
The Federal Pacific circuit breakers carried the UL seal, but there have long been questions about whether some or all were properly certified.
A Federal Pacific engineer who resigned in 1978 later wrote the company president with his claim that internal testing found certain breakers defective.
“We found that they would only perform for approximately 1,200 operations of 3,000 required by Underwriters,” he wrote, according to documents that were part of several lawsuits related to the faulty breakers. “At this point, the contacts would become badly burned and excessive temperatures would occur.”
The engineer, J.F. Meacham, cited several other cases where circuit breakers were “cheated” through the Underwriters Laboratories approval process, and he alleged that UL inspectors were paid to “turn their heads,” the document says.
The engineer wrote that the cheating would hurt the company, but no mention was made of possible safety consequences.
“I think you know me well enough to know that I could not turn my back or take part in what I have described in this letter, so I left,” he wrote.
Drengenberg said UL couldn’t comment on the 32-year-old allegations because records do not extend that far back.
If an inspector has heard of the potential hazards of a Federal Pacific circuit breaker, it’s through experience, Charvoz said, not through the federal government.
“There’s a good chance that things will fail later,” even if they’ve worked properly for decades, said Charvoz. “There are electricians out there who say, ‘Don’t change them, it’s OK.’ That’s something that needs to be changed.”
Dallas electricians and home inspectors almost always flag Federal Pacific breakers during inspections because they might be dangerous, home inspector Rudy Ringel said.
Whether people decide to replace the breakers is an issue for the home buyer and seller to determine; it’s not mandatory.
Todd Holmes, a father of two, was remodeling his bathroom when the contractor redoing his electrical system suggested he replace his Federal Pacific electrical box, including the breaker.
“It’s going to be $2,000 or so, but we’re getting it changed to be on the safe side,” Holmes said. “It’s the smartest thing to do.”
How can you tell if your home has a Federal Pacific Stab-Lok circuit breaker?
The faulty breakers would be inside a box in a wall of your home, probably in a closet or in the garage. Inside the panel door would be a label that says “Federal Pacific” or the letters “FPE.” The flaws in the breaker are not visually apparent.
What should you do about it?
Experts say any Federal Pacific Stab-Lok breaker should be replaced. Breakers that have a white dot on the handle were manufactured after a redesign by Federal Pacific. Testing shows they are statistically less likely to fail, but experts still recommend replacement.
How much will this cost?
About $2,000. Replacement should be made only by a qualified electrician.
SOURCE: Dallas Morning News research
Roof Leak
This house had a 6 year old clay tile roof. It was in good condition except for a couple of crack tiles that could be seen when we got up on the roof. After close examination of the exterior walls, we found these stain marks on the front porch. There are also other stain marks to the right of these that cannot be seen in this picture. This is evidence of a leak at the valley or tranistion in the roof. The repair here is about $1400.00. It is important that your home inspector understand roof systems and know how to inspect them properly. This can save you a lot of money down the road by knowing what condition your roof is in and fixing the problem rather than waiting and letting it get worse.
Posted by Bill Siegel Florida Home Inspecxxtion Team Inc
Seawalls
Some of you will be fortuante enough to by on a canal that will have a seawall. My client on this seawall had no idea that it is part of the property and that it is her responsibility to maintain it. This seawall is undermined and is falling into the canal. It probably will have to be rebuilt, which will cost about $20,000.00. It is important that your home inspector be able to recognize this and properly report it.
Posted by Bill Siegel Florida Home Inspection Team Inc.
Roof damage
This is a common roof problem in the Weston area. There is a small transition area that cannot be seen in this picture on the roof. The result of this leak is easily seen by the damaged fascia and weed growing from the fascia. This repair will cost about $1200.00 to repair. There was the same type of leak on the other side of the home. The total repairs to the roof was estimated at $2400.00.
Posted by Bill Siegel Florida Home Inspection Team Inc.
Shower wall damage
The back wall of this shower is damaged. The tiles are pushing in and the wall board is soft. Because this is a molded pan, the repairs will cost about $600.00. If there had been a vinyl shower pan here the repairs woudl have been over $2000.00.
Posted by Bill Siegel Florida Home Inspection Team Inc.
101 uses for vinegar
Who Would Have Thought Vinegar Was so Handy?
Vinegar (probably originally from spoiled wine) has been known and used for about 10,000 years. Today we use it for hundreds of tasks including cleaning, laundry, garden, health, automotive, pets and cooking. It’s economical, natural, non-toxic and environmentally friendly. Here, from vinegartips.com, are a few ideas for making the most of vinegar:
- Clean counter tops and make them smell sweet again with a cloth soaked in undiluted white distilled vinegar.
- Clean the fridge: use a mixture of half water, half vinegar to wipe down the interior shelves and walls.
- Stop ants from congregating by pouring white distilled vinegar on the area.
- Discourage cats from getting into the kids’ sandbox with white distilled vinegar.
See the website for 1001 household uses for vinegar
How to Clean and Seal a Deck
For larger areas, rent or purchase a pressure washer. Spray the bleach/water mixture on the boards first and let it soak in for a while before pressure washing. Make sure you cover up shrubs and plants before you start spraying bleach.
Fix it now? Fix it later? A useful guide to prioritizing household problem
Published: 8/11/09, 1:45 PM EDT
By Shaila Wunderlich
For many homeowners, tackling that annoying and ever-present home-repair list is a perennial resolution. But the recession has more homeowners facing a tough question: What do we fix now, and what can we put off until later?
At the top of Joe and Mary Ellen Smith’s list was fixing the built-in electronic air purifiers in their Andersonville, Ill., home. Then came floods that caused $10,000 worth of water and sewer damage. Suddenly, the purifier-replacement job seemed neither urgent nor feasible.
“That would have cost around $1,000 to fix, something that would have been easy enough to do back then,” Joe says. “But now that job is way, way, way down on the list.”
Putting jobs off is becoming a more popular option. In the last year, Ron Cowgill has observed work slowly skidding to a stop at his Glenview, Ill., business, D/R Services Unlimited – that’s both in his remodeling department and what he calls his small-projects division, which covers everything from changing light bulbs to replacing shower doors.
“Windows aren’t being replaced as fast, old doors are getting weather-stripped instead of being replaced, electrical work is getting done one section at a time, rather than whole houses at a time,” Cowgill says. “I had one homeowner whose heating ducts aren’t put on properly, but the heat still comes out, so they’re putting that repair off indefinitely.”
We asked several contractors, remodelers and builders for what should be at the top – and the bottom – of a homeowner’s to-do list. Here’s what they advise:
WHAT CAN’T WAIT
Water, water, anywhere
Nothing does more damage in the least amount of time than water: “Nothing does more damage in the least amount of time than water,” says Dawn Tuskey, owner of IHM Remodeling Repair Contractors in Downers Grove, Ill. Water can show up through any number of routes, from a flooded sump pump to leaky or broken toilets to condensation-riddled windows, doors and roofs. Whatever its route, know this: The cost of repairing water damage will never be less than at the moment it is first spotted.
Sewage system or septic tank failure
Woe to those who ignore the gurgling of an angry sewage system: What started as a “glug, glug, glug” emanating from the toilet in Debbi Bobbitt’s Vernon Hills, Ill., condo manifested a year later as a shallow lake of the building’s collective raw sewage spread across her kitchen and dining room not once but twice. Had she not ignored those original symptoms, she may have saved herself the $2,600 she paid to replace the kitchen and dining room floor – twice – not to mention being displaced from her home for more than a month.
Those who’ve never experienced the wrath of an angry sewage system should not feel like they have dodged all problems. “Sump pumps and ejector pits should be checked regularly,” says Lou Manfredini, host of “Mr. Fix-It” on WGN Radio, Chicago, with more tips online at www.home improvement minutes.com.
Extensive mold
All homes have mold, but for some even a little is too much: Mold is a must-go for the health risks it poses. “If you have any sort of allergies or sinus problems at all, living with that stuff is going to hurt,” Tuskey says. But Tuskey qualifies that statement by pointing out that nearly all homes have some degree of mold, and that not all “black stuff” is mold. When in doubt, call in a mold remediator to assess the situation.
Overcrowded outlets or antiqued wiring
Overplugged electrical systems present tremendous fire hazards: One fix is affordable; the other quite costly. Because both problems are fire hazards, they must be attended to. An insufficient number of outlets, tangles of extension cords, and surge protectors plugged into extension cords are all signs of overtaxed electrical. Adding outlets shouldn’t cost more than around $100 per outlet, according to Tuskey. “It’s relatively affordable and it will prevent your house from burning down, so just do it,” she says. Updating wiring to match code, though a much bigger job, is equally crucial to a home’s safety. Depending on the age of the house and the state of its wiring system, an update can easily run into the thousands of dollars.
Faulty or non-existent smoke detectors
Cut your risk from fire in half: There’s a reason daylight-saving time is used as a cue for checking the functionality of smoke detectors. According to the U.S. Fire Administration, the death rate in homes with smoke alarms is 40- to 50-percent lower than in homes without alarms. These days, there are more reasons to pay attention to detectors. Some villages are mandating that a home’s smoke detectors be wired together. New radio-frequency models forego the need for professional electrical installation, cutting the cost by as much as several thousand dollars.
“The average life of these units is about seven years,” Manfredini says. “If you’re not sure, replace them.”
WHAT CAN WAIT
Crumbling soil base around a house
Consequences can be merely cosmetic: According to Michael Menn, principal of Design Construction Concepts in Northbrook, Ill., a deteriorating soil base around the perimeter of a house is an increasing phenomenon in Chicago as the region continues to trudge its way through a decade-long drought. Though the eventual consequences can be extreme (sinking, cracking and separating foundations) and the solution extremely expensive (minimum $20,000 for yard regrading), the big-picture problem is sometimes only cosmetic. “It can affect the resale of a house,” Menn says. “It’s happening in my own house; there’s a huge crack in the wall. I plan to tackle it over the next year or two.”
Punctured gutter
A simple test can tell you when a gutter has to go: One or two small holes in a gutter don’t necessarily call for immediate replacement. “It won’t look pretty, but a quick fix of seam sealer or roof tar can get you through a couple months,” Manfredini says. But “if you put your finger over one hole and two or three more leaks spring out, it’s time to replace,” Tuskey says. If you don’t, then you are looking at water problems – and that is a must-fix.
Chipped or peeled paint
A prime, if temporary, solution to protect exposed wood: Most paint needs fall into the cosmetic category. In general, all cosmetic changes can wait to be fixed – at least for a year or two. Just don’t put it off indefinitely. Exterior wood left exposed to the elements will deteriorate over the long run. “If the weather is cooperating, I’d put a coat of primer on the bare spots to protect it for a few months,” Manfredini says.
Some roof damage
Small problems can be patched while you save for the big job that’s coming: Tickets don’t get much bigger than that of a new roof, which can run tens of thousands of dollars. While a leaky or structurally unsound roof is dangerously urgent, smaller-scale problems, such as a few shriveled shingles, can be taken as a sign that the roof is in its twilight years. Address the smaller problem and begin saving up for the big job in a year or two down the road.
Broken or dead appliance
Just how critical is the wheezing washer? These are about as urgent as a homeowner perceives them to be. If other, more urgent to-dos abound, a home can certainly function without a working dishwasher until the more important problem has been addressed, “especially if it hasn’t stopped working completely,” says Lonny Rutherford, 2008 Chairman for the National Association of Home Builders.
When in doubt, remember this: Anything that threatens the life or health of a home’s inhabitants is an immediate priority. Anything cosmetic can wait.
Posted by Bill Siegel Florida home Inspection Team Inc.
Roofing tips
to keep the building free of moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the building’s exterior walls from moisture and sun. The concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are different, reflected in the choices of roofing materials.
Homeowner maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roof’s valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage, regardless of the roofing material. including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. The best way to preserve your roof is to stay off it. Also, seasonal changes in the weather are usually the most destructive forces.
A leaky roof can damage ceilings, walls and furnishings. To protect buildings and their contents from water damage, roofers repair and install roofs made of tar or asphalt and gravel; rubber or thermoplastic; metal; or shingles made of asphalt, slate, fiberglass, wood, tile, or other material. Roofers also may waterproof foundation walls and floors.
There are two types of roofs: flat and pitched (sloped). Most commercial, industrial and apartment buildings have flat or slightly sloping roofs. Most houses have pitched roofs. Some roofers work on both types; others specialize. Most flat roofs are covered with several layers of materials. Roofers first put a layer of insulation on the roof deck. Over the insulation, they then spread a coat of molten bitumen, a tar-like substance. Next, they install partially overlapping layers of roofing felt, a fabric saturated in bitumen, over the surface. Roofers use a mop to spread hot bitumen over the surface and under the next layer. This seals the seams and makes the surface watertight. Roofers repeat these steps to build up the desired number of layers, called plies. The top layer either is glazed to make a smooth finish or has gravel embedded in the hot bitumen to create a rough surface. An increasing number of flat roofs are covered with a single-ply membrane of waterproof rubber or thermoplastic compounds. Roofers roll these sheets over the roof’s insulation and seal the seams. Adhesive mechanical fasteners, or stone ballast hold the sheets in place. The building must be of sufficient strength to hold the ballast.
Most residential roofs are covered with shingles. To apply shingles, roofers first lay, cut, and tack 3-foot strips of roofing felt lengthwise over the entire roof. Then, starting from the bottom edge, they staple or nail overlapping rows of shingles to the roof. Workers measure and cut the felt and shingles to fit intersecting roof surfaces and to fit around vent pipes and chimneys. Wherever two roof surfaces intersect, or where shingles reach a vent pipe or chimney, roofers cement or nail flashing strips of metal or shingle over the joints to make them watertight. Finally, roofers cover exposed nailheads with roofing cement or caulking to prevent water leakage. Roofers who use tile, metal shingles or shakes follow a similar process. Some roofers also water-proof and damp-proof masonry and concrete walls and floors. To prepare surfaces for waterproofing, they hammer and chisel away rough spots, or remove them with a rubbing brick, before applying a coat of liquid waterproofing compound. They also may paint or spray surfaces with a waterproofing material, or attach a waterproofing membrane to surfaces. When damp-proofing, they usually spray a bitumen-based coating on interior or exterior surfaces.
A number of roofing materials are available…
Asphalt
Asphalt is the most commonly used roofing material. Asphalt products include shingles, roll-roofing, built-up roofing, and modified bitumen membranes. Asphalt shingles are typically the most common and economical choice for residential roofing. They come in a variety of colors, shapes and textures. There are four different types: strip, laminated, interlocking, and large individual shingles. Laminated shingles consist of more than one layer of tabs to provide extra thickness. Interlocking shingles are used to provide greater wind resistance. And large individual shingles generally come in rectangular and hexagonal shapes. Roll-roofing products are generally used in residential applications, mostly for underlayments and flashings. They come in four different types of material: smooth-surfaced, saturated felt, specialty-eaves flashings, and mineral-surfaced. Only mineral-surfaced is used alone as a primary roof covering for small buildings, such as sheds. Smooth-surfaced products are used primarily as flashing to seal the roof at intersections and protrusions, and for providing extra deck protection at the roof’s eaves and valleys. Saturated felt is used as an underlayment between the roof deck and the roofing material. Specialty-eaves flashings are typically used in climates where ice dams and water backups are common. Built-up roofing (or BUR) is the most popular choice of roofing used on commercial, industrial and institutional buildings. BUR is used on flat and low-sloped roofs and consists of multiple layers of bitumen and ply sheets. Components of a BUR system include the roof deck, a vapor retarder, insulation, membrane, and surfacing material. A modified bitumen-membrane assembly consists of continuous plies of saturated felts, coated felts, fabrics or mats between which alternate layers of bitumen are applied, either surfaced or unsurfaced. Factory surfacing, if applied, includes mineral granules, slag, aluminum or copper. The bitumen determines the membrane’s physical characteristics and provides primary waterproofing protection, while the reinforcement adds strength, puncture-resistance and overall system integrity.
MetalMost metal roofing products consist of steel or aluminum, although some consist of copper and other metals. Steel is invariably galvanized by the application of a zinc or a zinc-aluminum coating, which greatly reduces the rate of corrosion. Metal roofing is available as traditional seam and batten, tiles, shingles and shakes. Products also come in a variety of styles and colors. Metal roofs with solid sheathing control noise from rain, hail and bad weather just as well as any other roofing material. Metal roofing can also help eliminate ice damming at the eaves. And in wildfire-prone areas, metal roofing helps protect buildings from fire, should burning embers land on the roof. Metal roofing costs more than asphalt, but it typically lasts two to three times longer than asphalt and wood shingles.
WoodWood shakes offer a natural look with a lot of character. Because of variations in color, width, thickness, and cut of the wood, no two shake roofs will ever look the same. Wood offers some energy benefits, too. It helps to insulate the attic, and it allows the house to breathe, circulating air through the small openings under the felt rows on which wooden shingles are laid. A wood shake roof, however, demands proper maintenance and repair, or it will not last as long as other products. Mold, rot and insects can become a problem. The life-cycle cost of a shake roof may be high, and old shakes can’t be recycled. Most wood shakes are unrated by fire safety codes. Many use wipe or spray-on fire retardants, which offer less protection and are only effective for a few years. Some pressure-treated shakes are impregnated with fire retardant and meet national fire safety standards. Installing wood shakes is more complicated than roofing with composite shingles, and the quality of the finished roof depends on the experience of the contractor, as well as the caliber of the shakes used. The best shakes come from the heartwood of large, old cedar trees, which are difficult to find. Some contractors maintain that shakes made from the outer wood of smaller cedars, the usual source today, are less uniform, more subject to twisting and warping, and don’t last as long.
Concrete and Tile
Concrete tiles are made of extruded concrete that is colored. Traditional roofing tiles are made from clay. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are durable, aesthetically appealing, and low in maintenance. They also provide energy savings and are environmentally friendly. Although material and installation costs are higher for concrete and clay tile roofs, when evaluated on a price-versus-performance basis, they may out-perform other roofing materials. Tile adorns the roofs of many historic buildings, as well as modern structures. In fact, because of its extreme durability, longevity and safety, roof tile is the most prevalent roofing material in the world. Tested over centuries, roof tile can successfully withstand the most extreme weather conditions including hail, high wind, earthquakes, scorching heat, and harsh freeze-thaw cycles. Concrete and clay roof tiles also have unconditional Class A fire ratings, which means that, when installed according to building code, roof tile is non-combustible and maintains that quality throughout its lifetime. In recent years, manufacturers have developed new water-shedding techniques and, for high-wind situations, new adhesives and mechanical fasteners. Because the ultimate longevity of a tile roof also depends on the quality of the sub-roof, roof tile manufacturers are also working to improve flashings and other aspects of the underlayment system. Under normal circumstances, properly installed tile roofs are virtually maintenance-free. Unlike other roofing materials, roof tiles actually become stronger over time. Because of roof tile’s superior quality and minimal maintenance requirements, most roof tile manufacturers offer warranties that range from 50 years to the lifetime of the structure.
Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are also energy-efficient, helping to maintain livable interior temperatures (in both cold and warm climates) at a lower cost than other roofing systems. Because of the thermal capacity of roof tiles and the ventilated air space that their placement on the roof surface creates, a tile roof can lower air-conditioning costs in hotter climates, and produce more constant temperatures in colder regions, which reduces potential ice accumulation. Tile roofing systems are made from naturally occurring materials and can be easily recycled into new tiles or other useful products. They are produced without the use of chemical preservatives, and do not deplete limited natural resources.Single-Ply
Single-ply membranes are flexible sheets of compounded synthetic materials that are manufactured in a factory. There are three types of membranes: thermosets, thermoplastics, and modified bitumens. These materials provide strength, flexibility, and long-lasting durability. The advantages of pre-fabricated sheets are the consistency of the product quality, the versatility in their attachment methods, and, therefore, their broader applicability. They are inherently flexible, used in a variety of attachment systems, and compounded for long-lasting durability and watertight integrity for years of roof life. Thermoset membranes are compounded from rubber polymers. The most commonly used polymer is EPDM (often referred to as “rubber roofing”). Thermoset membranes make successful roofing materials because they can withstand the potentially damaging effects of sunlight and most common chemicals generally found on roofs. The easiest way to identify a thermoset membrane is by its seams, which require the use of adhesive, either liquid or tape, to form a watertight seal at the overlaps. Thermoplastic membranes are based on plastic polymers. The most common thermoplastic is PVC (polyvinyl chloride) which has been made flexible through the inclusion of certain ingredients called plasticizers. Thermoplastic membranes are identified by seams that are formed using either heat or chemical welding. These seams are as strong or stronger than the membrane itself. Most thermoplastic membranes are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, usually polyester or fiberglass, which provides increased strength and dimensional stability. Modified bitumen membranes are hybrids that incorporate the high-tech formulation and pre-fabrication advantages of single-ply with some of the traditional installation techniques used in built-up roofing. These materials are factory-fabricated layers of asphalt, “modified” using a rubber or plastic ingredient for increased flexibility, and combined with reinforcement for added strength and stability. There are two primary modifiers used today: APP (atactic polypropylene) and SBS (styrene butadiene styrene). The type of modifier used may determine the method of sheet installation. Some are mopped down using hot asphalt, and some use torches to melt the asphalt so that it flows onto the substrate. The seams are sealed by the same technique.
Are You at Risk?
If you aren’t sure whether your house is at risk from natural disasters, check with your local fire marshal, building official, city engineer, or planning and zoning administrator. They can tell you whether you are in a hazard area. Also, they usually can tell you how to protect yourself and your house and property from damage. It is never a bad idea to ask an InterNACHI inspector whether your roof is in need of repair during your next scheduled inspection. Protection can involve a variety of changes to your house and property which that can vary in complexity and cost. You may be able to make some types of changes yourself. But complicated or large-scale changes and those that affect the structure of your house or its electrical wiring and plumbing should be carried out only by a professional contractor licensed to work in your state, county or city. One example is fire protection, accomplished by replacing flammable roofing materials with fire-resistant materials. This is something that most homeowners would probably hire a contractor to do.
Replacing Your Roof 
The age of your roof is usually the major factor in determining when to replace it. Most roofs last many years, if properly installed, and often can be repaired rather than replaced. An isolated leak usually can be repaired. The average life expectancy of a typical residential roof is 15 to 20 years. Water damage to a home’s interior or overhangs is commonly caused by leaks from a single weathered portion of the roof, poorly installed flashing, or from around chimneys and skylights. These problems do not necessarily mean you need a new roof.
Fire-Resistant Materials
Some roofing materials, including asphalt shingles, and especially wood shakes, are less resistant to fire than others. When wildfires and brush fires spread to houses, it is often because burning branches, leaves, and other debris buoyed by the heated air and carried by the wind fall onto roofs. If the roof of your house is covered with wood or asphalt shingles, you should consider replacing them with fire-resistant materials. You can replace your existing roofing materials with slate, terra cotta or other types of tile, or standing-seam metal roofing. Replacing roofing materials is difficult and dangerous work. Unless you are skilled in roofing and have all the necessary tools and equipment, you will probably want to hire a roofing contractor to do the work. Also, a roofing contractor can advise you on the relative advantages and disadvantages of various fire-resistant roofing materials.
Hiring a Licensed Contractor
One of the best ways to select a roofing contractor is to ask friends and relatives for recommendations. You may also contact a professional roofers association for referrals. Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors. Follow these guidlines when selecting a contractor: 
- get three references and review their past work;
- get at least three bids;
- get a written contract, and don’t sign anything until you completely understand the terms;
- pay 10% down or $1,000 whichever is less;
- don’t let payments get ahead of the work;
- don’t pay cash;
- don’t make final payment until you’re satisfied with the job; and
- don’t rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision.
You’ve Chosen the Contractor… What About the Contract?
Make sure everything is in writing. The contract is one of the best ways to prevent problems before you begin. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon. Get all promises in writing and spell out exactly what the contractor will and will not do.
…and Permits?
Your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. Generally, a building permit is required whenever structural work is involved. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permits. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage, and again when the roof is completed.
…and Insurance?
Make sure the contractor carries workers’ compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file. You should protect yourself from mechanics’ liens against your home in the event the contractor does not pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a “release of lien” clause in your contract. A release of lien clause requires the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers to furnish a “certificate of waiver of lien.” If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project.
Keep these points in mind if you plan to have your existing roofing materials replaced:
- Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.
- Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.
- Posted by Bill Siegel Florida Home Inspection Team Inc.
Asphalt is the most commonly used roofing material. Asphalt products include shingles, roll-roofing, built-up roofing, and modified bitumen membranes. Asphalt shingles are typically the most common and economical choice for residential roofing. They come in a variety of colors, shapes and textures. There are four different types: strip, laminated, interlocking, and large individual shingles. Laminated shingles consist of more than one layer of tabs to provide extra thickness. Interlocking shingles are used to provide greater wind resistance. And large individual shingles generally come in rectangular and hexagonal shapes. Roll-roofing products are generally used in residential applications, mostly for underlayments and flashings. They come in four different types of material: smooth-surfaced, saturated felt, specialty-eaves flashings, and mineral-surfaced. Only mineral-surfaced is used alone as a primary roof covering for small buildings, such as sheds. Smooth-surfaced products are used primarily as flashing to seal the roof at intersections and protrusions, and for providing extra deck protection at the roof’s eaves and valleys. Saturated felt is used as an underlayment between the roof deck and the roofing material. Specialty-eaves flashings are typically used in climates where ice dams and water backups are common. Built-up roofing (or BUR) is the most popular choice of roofing used on commercial, industrial and institutional buildings. BUR is used on flat and low-sloped roofs and consists of multiple layers of bitumen and ply sheets. Components of a BUR system include the roof deck, a vapor retarder, insulation, membrane, and surfacing material. A modified bitumen-membrane assembly consists of continuous plies of saturated felts, coated felts, fabrics or mats between which alternate layers of bitumen are applied, either surfaced or unsurfaced. Factory surfacing, if applied, includes mineral granules, slag, aluminum or copper. The bitumen determines the membrane’s physical characteristics and provides primary waterproofing protection, while the reinforcement adds strength, puncture-resistance and overall system integrity.
Concrete and Tile
Concrete tiles are made of extruded concrete that is colored. Traditional roofing tiles are made from clay. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are durable, aesthetically appealing, and low in maintenance. They also provide energy savings and are environmentally friendly. Although material and installation costs are higher for concrete and clay tile roofs, when evaluated on a price-versus-performance basis, they may out-perform other roofing materials. Tile adorns the roofs of many historic buildings, as well as modern structures. In fact, because of its extreme durability, longevity and safety, roof tile is the most prevalent roofing material in the world. Tested over centuries, roof tile can successfully withstand the most extreme weather conditions including hail, high wind, earthquakes, scorching heat, and harsh freeze-thaw cycles. Concrete and clay roof tiles also have unconditional Class A fire ratings, which means that, when installed according to building code, roof tile is non-combustible and maintains that quality throughout its lifetime. In recent years, manufacturers have developed new water-shedding techniques and, for high-wind situations, new adhesives and mechanical fasteners. Because the ultimate longevity of a tile roof also depends on the quality of the sub-roof, roof tile manufacturers are also working to improve flashings and other aspects of the underlayment system. Under normal circumstances, properly installed tile roofs are virtually maintenance-free. Unlike other roofing materials, roof tiles actually become stronger over time. Because of roof tile’s superior quality and minimal maintenance requirements, most roof tile manufacturers offer warranties that range from 50 years to the lifetime of the structure.
Single-ply membranes are flexible sheets of compounded synthetic materials that are manufactured in a factory. There are three types of membranes: thermosets, thermoplastics, and modified bitumens. These materials provide strength, flexibility, and long-lasting durability. The advantages of pre-fabricated sheets are the consistency of the product quality, the versatility in their attachment methods, and, therefore, their broader applicability. They are inherently flexible, used in a variety of attachment systems, and compounded for long-lasting durability and watertight integrity for years of roof life. Thermoset membranes are compounded from rubber polymers. The most commonly used polymer is EPDM (often referred to as “rubber roofing”). Thermoset membranes make successful roofing materials because they can withstand the potentially damaging effects of sunlight and most common chemicals generally found on roofs. The easiest way to identify a thermoset membrane is by its seams, which require the use of adhesive, either liquid or tape, to form a watertight seal at the overlaps. Thermoplastic membranes are based on plastic polymers. The most common thermoplastic is PVC (polyvinyl chloride) which has been made flexible through the inclusion of certain ingredients called plasticizers. Thermoplastic membranes are identified by seams that are formed using either heat or chemical welding. These seams are as strong or stronger than the membrane itself. Most thermoplastic membranes are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, usually polyester or fiberglass, which provides increased strength and dimensional stability. Modified bitumen membranes are hybrids that incorporate the high-tech formulation and pre-fabrication advantages of single-ply with some of the traditional installation techniques used in built-up roofing. These materials are factory-fabricated layers of asphalt, “modified” using a rubber or plastic ingredient for increased flexibility, and combined with reinforcement for added strength and stability. There are two primary modifiers used today: APP (atactic polypropylene) and SBS (styrene butadiene styrene). The type of modifier used may determine the method of sheet installation. Some are mopped down using hot asphalt, and some use torches to melt the asphalt so that it flows onto the substrate. The seams are sealed by the same technique.
Are You at Risk?
Replacing Your Roof
- get three references and review their past work;
- get at least three bids;
- get a written contract, and don’t sign anything until you completely understand the terms;
- pay 10% down or $1,000 whichever is less;
- don’t let payments get ahead of the work;
- don’t pay cash;
- don’t make final payment until you’re satisfied with the job; and
- don’t rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision.
- Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.
- Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.
- Posted by Bill Siegel Florida Home Inspection Team Inc.
Independent home inspections are crucial for would-be buyers
Would-be home buyers who come across unoccupied houses in their search for for their dream home should be extra careful.
Homes aren’t cared for all that well even when they are lived in, according to independent home inspectors. When it comes to regular maintenance, owners tend to be lax about changing the filters in their furnaces and air conditioners, fixing leaky faucets and repairing balky doors and windows.
But when a house is empty, all kinds of problems can occur. And when a house is in the throes of foreclosure, those issues are magnified.
Bargain-priced properties in foreclosure represent an opportunity but also a danger for unassuming buyers.
Even if the last owner left the property with its walls and plumbing intact, it still pays to be extra careful. An example: When a house is closed up for too long, mold can grow. And not just behind the walls, but out in the open as well.
In a humid climate, or in a house where the water hasn’t been turned off and there are leaky faucets, mold can be extensive. And when a house is boarded up, the situation is exacerbated. Inspectors say they have seen homes covered in black mold after just a few weeks of being unoccupied.
Of course, the mold can be eliminated with proper ventilation and can be cleaned up. But the chore could be expensive and time-consuming.
Whether or not the last owner moved out willingly, when a house has been empty for an extended period, it is common for inspectors to find leaking valves, gaskets and appliances.
No matter how large or small or expensive the house, every plumbing fixture and appliance has at least one valve, gasket or hose that can dry out if the item in question is not in use. That causes gaps that can result in leaks or even floods when a new owner moves in.
Moreover, if the sewer trap is allowed to dry out it could allow methane gas to back up into the house.
Then there’s the problem of unwelcome guests — human and otherwise. Empty houses are often the targets of vandals or thieves looking to steal anything that has an ounce of resale value, and squatters have been known to occupy such homes until they get the boot.
The handiwork of vandals is readily evident — graffiti spray-painted on the walls, for example — but thieves rip out everything from the kitchen cabinets to plumbing fixtures, from wiring and sometimes even structural elements without any regard to the ancillary damage they might cause.
If such damage goes undetected by a would-be buyer, the new owner could be in for some major headaches.
Insects, rodents and small animals such as raccoons can cause as much or even more damage. Even when vermin make themselves at home for a relatively short period, they can leave fleas behind and their droppings can cause unsanitary conditions.
Problems with blocked or damaged waste and sewer lines are common in houses that remain empty for too long. The longer the vacancy, the worse the damage can be.
Obviously, it pays to hire an independent home inspector to examine an empty house, or at least base your offer on a satisfactory inspection. It also pays to hire an examiner to review an occupied house. At the same time, here are some red flags that you can spot on your own before you get to that point:
* Extension cords. A snake pit of wires running hither and yon from wall outlets to lamps, radios, TV sets and desktop computers could be a sign of an outdated electrical system. If that’s the case, the house could require an entire electrical upgrade to meet your needs. A home inspector should be able to tell you whether a new panel and wiring is needed or that additional receptacles will suffice.
* Water pressure. If you turn on the faucet and the water seems to just drip, or you hear a gurgling sound, it could be evidence of a problem with older galvanized piping or inadequate piping. In many cases, sections of piping can be replaced to correct the problem, but sometimes a completely new plumbing system is called for.
* Foundation cracks. For the most part, vertical cracks are within normal settlement tolerances, but horizontal cracks are not. A horizontal crack generally results from hydrostatic pressure against the home’s foundation, and correction will often involve excavation and drainage provisions as well as repairs to the wall itself.
If horizontal cracking is evident, several structural engineers should be consulted to ascertain the extent of movement as well as corrective measures. Opinions often vary when it comes to structural elements, so it is best practice to get several opinions.
* Wall or ceiling stains. Any stain should be further evaluated to determine the cause and extent of any possible hidden damage. A good home inspector will search for the cause as well as test the stain using a moisture meter to determine whether or not it is active.
Posted by Bill Siegel Florida Home Inspection Team Inc.